








So here I present
How A Comic is Made: The Boring Version
or, if you like:
Tracy's Misguided and Somewhat Truncated Adventures
in the Land of Sequential Art.
Step 1. Thumbnails and Script
To start with, I flesh out a script and thumbnail sized layout for the scenario the comic will cover. Because the script is so reliant on the visuals and vice versa, I work on both simultaneously. These typically undergo at least two or three revisions, accounting for highly refined, expertly wrought dialogue the likes of, "AUGH!" and "AAAAAAAUUUGGHH!"
On a piece of
14x17" smooth Bristol board, I begin blocking out frames with a straightedge
based on the thumbnail layout. To start with, I use light pencil lines so
that I can easily erase and rearrange things if necessary.
Many, many hours, cups of tea and mugs of coffee later, I've finished penciling. Copy paper is my usual M.O. for any extra frames that don't fit unobtrusively with the main body of the comic on the Bristol board. Copy paper is pretty flimsy compared to Bristol, but I like the smooth surface for pencil drawing.
As anyone dwelling
in the artist's milieu could tell you, this is a vital and, one might say,
defining characteristic of the artistic process. There are a number of methods
to be utilized here: long brooding walks in the rain, pensive posturing atop
cemetery monuments, LiveJournal updates, or simply spending some time crumpled
in a heap, face down on the floor. "I'm a creative cipher - a husk
empty of meaningful expression!" and "What am I doing? I'm
such a hack!" are some of the more popular platitudes for this state
of mind.
Following the
requisite deluge of histrionics and perhaps a brief affliction of ennui, it's
time to visit the flatbed scanner. The unfortunate difficulty with working
on large pieces of paper is that affordable scanners aren't very accommodating
of such outrageous caprice. This means scanning segments, and then piecing
them back together in their proper order in Photoshop. I break the frames
apart into separate layers so that I can more easily arrange them. I also
use this step to do any cleanup work I either couldn't or didn't do with an
eraser.
Using a font
I created (with FontCreator 5), I begin filling in the dialogue I had worked
out in the script. Despite previous revisions, the dialogue tends to undergo
another round of alteration at this point to make sure it's as well-suited
to the characters and situation as possible.
To emphasize
shaded areas I didn't pay enough attention to with my pencil and to add some
extra contrast or depth where needed, I paint in shadows on top of the layer
containing the original penciling with a low opacity, hard-round brush. I
work in grayscale only at this stage. If the shadow layer begins to obfuscate
the penciling, I'll add a copy of the pencil layer (set to 'multiply' and
turned down to about 30% opacity) on top of the shadows to reinforce any lost
linework.
The last step (and just about the only one that doesn't require hours of work) is the minor color balance adjustment I use on the bitmap to create the overall sepia tone.